Danger Danger

The theme for January's NaBloPoMo on BlogHer is PRESSURE.  I think it's pretty funny, considering that we've just left the most pressure-filled time of year.  Pressure to get all your shopping done.  Pressure to meet the expectations of family and friends.  Pressure to make deadlines at work, despite the holiday craziness.  Your blood-pressure rising because of all the traffic and lines and chaos.  I honestly feel like here, now, just after midnight on New Year's Eve, I finally feel the pressure breaking.  Sweet, sweet relief.

January marks new beginnings for everyone, of course.  For me, it has long been the month I have to make a few decisions about my life.  I gave myself till January to figure out how to make things work with two jobs.  I gave myself till now to figure out if I could stay in the Pacific Northwest.  And if I can keep working in retail.

I haven't made all the decisions yet.  Luckily, the month isn't over yet.  But I did make one important decision.  I decided to resign from one of my jobs.  A few months ago, it would have been hard to choose between them.  But the holidays showed me which one would be more stable for me, which would provide better, and which would offer more opportunities in the future.  Thus, my time with Lush ends mid-January.

I have been a fan of Lush for many years now.  And leaving the company will not lessen my love of the products.  I will truly miss seeing the people I've had the pleasure of working with, both at my current store and those I got to see every so often at training.  But, the moment I gave my notice, I felt that bubble of pressure in my chest burst.

I don't know how people manage two jobs in the same field.  I honestly thought my two would balance each other out, but they actually proved to be too much together.  I was tired all through the holidays, I had very little time to myself and when I got sick right before Christmas, it hit me hard.  I really think I am getting too old for this.  But that's okay, it helped me make a firm decision and it will help me figure things out from here on out.  Maybe my theme for this year should be reducing pressure in all aspects of my life.

Know Your Bunny

Lush Handmade Cosmetics posts a lot of videos for their customers on YouTube, most of which walk the line between dopey and creepy (a line I'm quite fond of, really).  And this video from the campaign to stop animal testing in the cosmetics industry (in the U.S., it's already been done in the U.K.) is no exception:

Of course, anyone walking into a Lush store will find out very quickly that they do not test their products on animals, at any stage.  But the other day I had a discussion with someone and realized that I may be using brands that do test on animals and am just not aware of it.  My own special combination of ignorance and laziness revealed, I decided to get a little more proactive and go to the source of the leaping bunny, PETA.  Their site has some easy search functions for finding out who is testing, not testing, or transitioning to end testing within their company.  There are also PDFs of the lists for easy sharing and printing, as well as explanations as to how they compile the lists.  While not every brand I looked up was on one of the PETA lists, I did manage to find information on most of their sites to confirm that they do not test on animals.

Urban Decay impressed me the most, being not only listed on the PETA site as cruelty-free, but having a page on their own site dedicated to  their animal testing policy:

Urban Decay is a cruelty-free brand and is committed to ending animal testing. We do not test our finished products on animals, nor do we allow others to test on our behalf. Additionally, we require our suppliers to certify that the raw materials used in the manufacture of our products are not tested on animals. Our practices are certified by both PETA and The Leaping Bunny Program (CCIC) as cruelty-free.

NARS is not listed on the PETA site, but their animal testing policy is available on the Customer Care section of their site:

NARS does not test on animals, nor do we have any other parties, such as suppliers, conduct any animal testing on our behalf. NARS uses only the highest quality ingredients which have a proven safety record and are widely used in the cosmetics industry.

Benefit wasn't listed on the PETA site, but their own FAQ answered my question.  However, stating that it is "nearly impossible for any cosmetic company" to guarantee they don't test on animals seems a bit off to me.  I can only assume that the lawyers at their parent company, LVMH, require them to be a bit squirrely about making such big claims.  It makes me respect companies like NARS, Urban Decay and Lush that much more.

Benefit does not test our cosmetic products on animals and we require our raw material suppliers to provide safety information based on scientifically accepted alternative testing methods. It is nearly impossible for any cosmetic company to certify that all new and existing ingredients incorporated into products have never been tested on animals as part of the safety research and certification process. Benefit selects high quality raw materials with well-established safety records and uses an extensive ingredient database. Benefit is committed to maintaining the highest standards of human safety while eliminating the need for testing on animals.

Fresh wasn't listed on the PETA site, and they make no comment about testing on their own site (at least none that I could find), but I did find a blog in which a rep from Fresh responded that they do not test on animals.  Hopefully that's true, but it begs further research.

Dear Kim,

Thank you for your email. You will be happy to know that Fresh uses only natural ingredients and we do not test any of our products on animals, nor do we use animal-tested ingredients.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions.

Best Regards,

Melissa Drouin
Web Sales Coordinator
f r e s h Inc.
1-800-FRESH-20  

I was also under the impression that companies like The Body Shop (which is owned by L'Oreal) would not be able to claim they are cruelty-free, as their parent company is not.  The PETA site mentions that turning on those smaller "compassionate" companies is a mistake.  Having rejected animal testing from the beginning is a good thing and will hopefully inspire the larger companies to do the same.

One thing that complicates this argument is that companies that large often do a lot of business with China, a country that requires cosmetics to be tested on animals.  So how do we help those conglomerates choose "principles over profits?"   A simple start is to buy from companies who are not engaging in what is truly an unnecessary process.  And there are plenty of companies who do not test on animals to choose from.

One last note - Years ago I stopped using Gillette products because I knew they tested on animals.  What I failed to do was research other brands thoroughly.  I ended up using Schick, not realizing that Pfizer also tests on animals.  So does Bic.  It's rather frustrating to see that the list of cruelty-free razors is so small, but it does exist.  Another option, which I'm going to be pursuing, is running to your local Whole Foods for a Preserve razor (they also sell toothbrushes, for those of you on the hunt for a cruelty-free option).  Preserve sells a variety of items, all made with plastic from recycled yogurt cups.  Now you can reduce, reuse, recycle and know that no bunnies were harmed in the making of your beauty routine.

The Chosen Few

While packing for my trip to Seattle, I got to thinking about the products I have to have at home that aren't really necessary on the road.  I realized that I could slim down my toiletry bag and still be happy with the contents.  Of course, there are certain things I like to have with me in certain places, depending on climate or the like.  I wouldn't last a day in Park City (Utah) without some serious moisturizers - we're talking about a place where it's so dry that fleas can't survive.  And the hard water at Mary's place in Genoa (Italy) drives my skin crazy, so I have to bring every calming, soothing item I can think of.

Inspired by this internal discussion, I decided to put it out there to some of the Lost tribe.  Here are the three (or a bit more) beauty items we can't live without:

Meg:

Dove Soap Gentle Exfoliating!  Mmm...it smells so fresh and leaves my skin super soft.

Burt's Bees Original Lip Balm.  Tingly.  Perfect.  I use it all day, even under gloss or lipstick and at night, before bed.  My lips are hella kissable.  

Lubriderm Sensitive Skin Lotion.  Obviously moisturizing is a priority in my life.

 

Jodi: 

Philosophy Lip Gloss: a ton of great colors, scents and flavors! I am a lip gloss junkie, but have at least one (sometimes more) in my bag,

Makeup drawer and makeup bag at all times. 

LUSH Whoosh Shower Jelly: I know most people do not get it, but this is the PERFECT morning shower pick me up! 

Miss Jessie's Quick Curl: I first got this in a Birchbox and am so happy I did.  This styling cream sets and holds my curls perfectly.  I get tons of compliments when I use it! 

Wow! That was really hard!!! It was fun too, though!  

           

Jessica I.:

Fresh Sugar Lip Tint in Honey - A nude tint that is moisturizing and long lasting.  I also love the way it feels. 

I also love Burt's Bees Lip Balm, I think it's the "revitalizing" one, for when my lips really get out of control.  

I've been using the ShiKai shampoos and conditioners for a while now and I love them - they really do add highlights to your color.  

I also like Tarte's Amazonian line, but I cut it with a moisturizer.

And then there's me, the Jess who has two lists for you (all the products on this list are featured in the YouTube playlist, above).  First, the at home must-haves:

LUSH Blousey Shampoo:  It wasn't intended as a 2-in-1, but that's how I use it and it has made my scalp and curls equally happy.

LUSH Imperialis Facial Moisturizer: Just the right amount of hydration for my skin and takes all the red out.  I have a whole sensitive skin routine, but I've discovered that taking this out is a huge mistake.

LUSH Honey Trap Lip Balm: I love the honey/vanilla flavor, but you have to try it on to discover the light mint finish.  I am also a huge fan of Fresh Sugar Lip Tint in Honey, but if I had to choose only one lip product, it would be Honey Trap.  Nothing I've tried moisturizes as well, not to mention that it has some serious staying power without involving too much science (only safe synthetics here!).

But I have a whole different set of must-haves for travel:

Then the travel must-haves (I could survive anywhere with just these four items):

LUSH Full of Grace Serum Bar:  Soothing, preservative-free, solid moisturizing bar for my super sensitive facial skin.  I also used it as a wash when dealing with hard water and it was fantastic (though that is certainly not its intended use).  I keep one on hand to put under face masks, but in a pinch I could use it as moisturizer, cleanser, and even lip balm.

LUSH Honey I Washed the Kids Hand and Body Soap:  The soap that turned me away from shower gels!  HIWtK (as I will now call it) glides over skin, provides plenty of lather without drying skin out, and smells divine.  I also shave with it (though, again, not its intended use).

LUSH Ocean Salt Face and Body Scrub:  LUSH has a lot of wonderful products for exfoliating, but Ocean Salt does it all.  This flexible scrub can be softened with a bit of warm water (for sensitive skins) and smells like a margarita.  I use it on my face a few times a week and on the rest of me daily.  

LUSH Chou Chou...I Love You Toothy Tabs:  Although it isn't on my must-have list, the Ro's Argan Body Conditioner is one of my favorite things...in life.  The lemon in it keeps the rose from smelling too floral, instead it smells like a rosy-lemony confection.  When I travel, I take Chou Chou Toothy Tabs with me because they have that rose and lemon confection flavor goin' on and they're solid so I don't have to worry about putting them in my plastic baggie o' liquids.  

Does anyone out there have some favorites you'd like to share?  We'd love to hear from you!

Day 25: What I spent Day 24 Doing...

I have been coloring my hair since I was 17 years old.  That is 20 years of damaging my hair with synthetic dyes.  I've colored it burgundy, auburn, black, copper, pale blonde and strawberry blonde.  My natural color is dirty blonde with a whole lotta grey and I've always made a point to hide it the moment it starts showing again.

I have known about henna for a long time, but had always been wary of trying it.  A lot of the women I've seen with hennaed hair have odd colors of red or orange that look less natural than the synthetic dyes I've used.  But the girls at Lush Cosmetics finally convinced me to give their henna a go.

Les Cacas aren't just henna.  Each one is red henna set in Fair Trade cocoa butter (that's how they make it solid, in the design of a tea brick) with essential oils.  The darker three (Brun, Marron and Noir) also contain indigo henna.

Caca Rouge is now my favorite.  I've been using it for about five months now and have received all kinds of advice about it.  One person told me that it's easier if you grate the henna brick or finely chop it.  So, so not necessary.  All you need to do is cut the henna brick into the 6 tiles and plop the ones you need (my hair only needs 3 tiles) into a bowl.  If you let the tiles steep in the hot water for at least a few minutes, it will give the cocoa butter a chance to melt.

I have also been told that the henna will stain everything it touches.  As messy as the process can be, it's really not much more than with synthetic dyes.  The big difference with clean up is that any henna I've missed hasn't actually stained anything...but there are still blotches on my bathroom door and cabinet from the last time I used a box dye - which also stained my scalp and face if I didn't wipe it off in time.  To protect my face, I apply Ultrabland (also from Lush) to my entire face.  You don't have to do anything beyond your hairline and ears, but I love this stuff, especially leaving it on for a couple of hours.  Ultrabland is gentle, but a seriously effective cleanser and taking it off in the shower with Ocean Salt feels just lovely.

One more - I was once told not to use a metal bowl or spoon when making it.  With traditional henna, that may be true (as most are made using metallic salts), but Lush's henna does not contain anything that will react to metal.  In fact, in the video below, you see Mark Constantine (one of Lush's inventors/co-founders) using an all-metal double boiler to prepare the henna.

Then there is the good advice I've gotten (and not always stuck to, regretfully):

It is true that this process is easier with someone around to help you.  Mostly because someone else can see your head from all angles.  It's also a hell of a lot more fun with company.

I believe I read in the instructions to apply the henna from back to front, but I disobeyed the first few times I did it.  Turns out it's easier to start at the back.  The henna is a muddy texture and will make the hair stiff as it dries, so this method really is the best.

Covering my hennaed head with cling wrap has been wonderful - no more flaking Caca onto the floor or having to stay in the bathroom for the two hours that it takes for the henna to finish up.  However, if you want a "bluer finish" instead of more red highlights when using Brun, Marron or Noir, don't cover up.

This is another excellent video that shows you all the steps:

And the last is a piece of advice just from me:  Don't start by rinsing in the shower - you'll end up with muddy shower walls that are a pain to clean.  I do my first rinse kneeling in the tub, with my head under the faucet.  That water is stronger anyway, but I also follow the initial rinse with a conditioner, then rinse again.  And I shampoo last.  I don't feel like I need the conditioner to nourish my hair after having the cocoa butter in it for a couple of hours (I use it after the first rinse to remove more of the henna)...but sometimes I use it anyway.  And it may take me longer than most to get it all out because my hair is coarse and curly.

In the end, my hair looks as if I've never done it harm, much less 20 years of it.  My curls are bouncier and my hair looks shiny without adding any product to it.  What's more, my hair stays in this condition for weeks and even once my roots start coming in and it's time to henna again, my hair is still healthier and happier than it has ever been before.  I can never go back now.

The Thinnest Skin: Winter Skincare

Those of you who have kept up with The Thinnest Skin have likely noticed that I'm pretty obsessed with Lush Handmade Cosmetics.  It started many years ago and just. hasn't. stopped.  And I have so many girlfriends to thank for encouraging this obsession and partaking in trips to Lush to feed it.

WINTER SKINCARE

When I lived in California, I never thought much about how the change of seasons would impact my skincare routine.  In the Bay Area, it never got terribly cold and the dryness always felt about the same to me, regardless of time of year.

Virginia is a completely different beast.  The humidity in summer makes my skin glow and I only need light lotions for face and body.  But the dryness in winter leaves my lips chapped and the skin on my face feeling uncomfortably tight.  And, once it starts snowing (and doesn't stop for a while), I'm going to need a lot of SPF to fight the glare.  Which is not to say that you shouldn't be use SPF all the time anyway.

For those of you fighting the effects of a dry winter, here are my (mostly) Lush recommendations:

PREP

First and foremost, you will want to prep your skin so that whatever you use to hydrate will sink in quickly, instead of having to fight past all that dead skin.  This does not have to be a daily activity, but at least twice a week I use the Mint Julips Lip Scrub (a staff favorite at my local Lush) and the Ocean Salt Face and Body Scrub.

The lip scrubs can be used pretty frequently, but I only use them when I actually feel like I need them - if my bottom lip already feels smooth, I'm not going to stress it out by trying to remove skin from it.  That said, these are gentle scrubs and they aren't sticky like a lot of the lip scrubs out there.  Made with sugar and essential oils, they are also great to have in your bag for a quick fix for dry lips.  Just take a pinch out of the pot, rub onto dry lips and lick off.  Yes, I'm serious.  They taste great.  If you prefer to rinse off with water, you can do that instead.  Don't forget to moisturize with a lip balm or the like - you have to replace the moisture you lose when you exfoliate!

I know people who use Ocean Salt as their face scrub almost every day, but with my sensitive skin I go for about twice a week.  I also like to apply 9 to 5 Cleansing Lotion underneath, because it just feels so good.  Ocean Salt is one of Lush's bestselling products worldwide.  If you're worried that it's too abrasive for you, just try adding a bit of warm water to it - the fine and coarse sea salt melt into the oils and butters, but you still get a good scrub.  You also don't need to scrub it into your skin - just apply and rinse.  Ocean Salt brightens, softens and tones.  And the seaweed absolute in it is calming for sensitive, easily reddened skin, not to mention packed with nutrients.

HYDRATE

When Winter hits, you will want to consider whether your summer face lotion is going to be moisturizing enough to combat the dryness of winter.  Using a slightly denser lotion/cream may be the only thing in your facial routine you need to switch up.  To avoid ending up with a layer of cream just sitting on your face, you only want to go up a step or two away from what you usually use.

For example, someone with oily skin who uses Vanishing Cream Facial Moisturizer might want to switch to Gorgeous Facial Moisturizer for the winter.  Beware: You may get addicted to this one and never be able to switch back - this softening, smoothing, brightening, easily absorbed cream has reached cult status with Lushies.  And don't forget to use a toner to prep your skin for your moisturizer (my longtime favorite is Breath of Fresh Air).

If you are worried that your facial cleanser is drying you out now that winter has hit, consider trying a cleanser that leaves your skin clean and hydrated instead of squeaky-clean and tight.  My go-to facial cleanser is Angels on Bare Skin (also loved by Mary), which leaves my combination-to-oily skin baby-soft without getting greasy by the end of the day.  It is also mildly exfoliating - enough to remove the day, not so much that it irritates my sensitive skin.  When I need to remove stubborn eye makeup, I head straight for the Ultrabland, which will work wonders for any of you girls with dry skin.  But there's no need to take my word for it, just look at Helen's skin in the video below (Helen is a Lush founder, product inventor and has been using this cleanser for over 30 years).

Face serums are another option for adding extra moisture into your routine.  Full of Grace is a preservative-free, solid serum bar with anti-aging properties (thanks to fresh portobello mushrooms, oddly enough) and is an easy add-on to anyone's skincare routine.  It is also fabulous under a fresh face mask like Love Lettuce or Catastrophe Cosmetic (which both work for all skin types).

Speaking of Lush's fresh face masks, if you haven't tried these, you really must.  Mary is a fan of Ayesha, which is for mature but oily skin.  My friend Sarah has long been an admirer of The Sacred Truth, for mature or seriously dry skin.  And I can't survive without BB Seaweed, which both hydrates and calms my sensitive combination skin.

PROTECT

And don't forget to go back and hydrate/protect your lips with a good lip balm.  The lip scrub will prep your lips for accepting that moisture, but also will give you even color with lipsticks or stains.  I always have a pot of Honey Trap Lip Balm on me, but I also like to layer Ultrabalm (which is a great multi-purpose balm to have around anyway) over one of the Emotional Brilliance Lip Colors (like Confident, which I dab on for a plum tint, but you can load on for a bold lip) to give it a bit of sheen while keeping my lips soft and protected.  The entire Emotional Brilliance line is, as of this posting, Buy 1, Get 1 Free.  Just FYI.

Unfortunately, Lush doesn't carry much in the way of SPF right now.  So I wander on over to L'Occitane for the Angelica Glowing (UV) Shield SPF 40.  This is a really light fluid that I can easily mix into my face lotion.  And I love the smell.  I'm weird that way.  Which is why I like Lush so much.